The New Line Array for 2003 - Page 2


Damping treatment on the truss.

After the basic array structure was completed I used a trusty chime knocker to attempt test and determine the resonance profile of the assembly by tapping and listening to the resonance profile. The closet-rod spine seemed to be a potential problem area, but how to attempt to damp such an open triangular-truss assembly? Having a lot more time than money now, which was why I didn't build the structures from resonance-free "unobtainium" in the first place, I thought of that old product out of Washington state, "Acoustical Magic."

"Acoustical Magic" was sold as a paint-on damping compound, described as an 'elastic borosilicate' compound? Hmmm? An internet search turns up vestiges of "Acoustical Magic", but apparently the company which manufactured it is long gone. A trip to the local "Lowe's" turned up "Kool Seal- Elastomeric Roof Coating." Looks like heavy white paint to me.

I had on-hand a large amount of 80 grit white silica sand from a local masonary supply yard. 80 grit sand is very fine, the kind of sand you might imagine in an hourglass. I think I used about a 4:1 mixture, by volume, of the paint-to-sand. It produced a non-settling mixture which could be painted on. The paint is water-based, so drying time was relatively quick.

What you see is in the photo is three coats of the mixture on everything but the spine, which had four coats - the painting process was a horror! Tapping again with the chime knocker, after the mixture had dried, did produce a dramatic change in the resonance profile. Whether that change will provide any virtue at all, given the forces involved on the structure when the drivers are exhibiting a large Xmax is unclear?

Rear gluing of the drivers.

I'd always planned on gluing the rear of the drivers' magnet assemblies to the truss-spine. The glue is silicone seal, hence there is some chance of cutting through it to remove a driver in the future. The texture of the dried DIY acoustical magic is shown in the photograph. It does dry to a sort-of hard concrete-like density. The surface is definitely 'shark skin' texture, i.e. like 80 grit sandpaper.

With the added thickness to the spine from the coating of damping mixture, the drivers' magnets were a flush fit when screwed in to the baffle front. Square-drive wood screws with large 'collar-heads' were used to mount the drivers. All holes were pre-drilled. A battery-powered screw driver with clutch seemed to be mandatory what with all the screws that were used in the structures.

Note the number in felt-pen ink on the magnet assembly: a foreshadowing of more obsessive-compulsive issues related to the drivers described below.

The drivers were alternated as to orientation of the electrical connectors in the structure. Each driver had a nominal 3 ohm DC resistance, and six drivers each were wired in series, alternating up the array, and then each set of six drivers-in-series wired with each other in parallel, for a nominal 9 ohm DC resistance for the entire array.

A spare piece of Gortz flat-conductor was run down the center-rear of the truss spine for the electrical return of the series-parallel arrangement. Teflon-insulated sliver-plated 16 gauge wire was used to interconnect the drivers.

The completed line array.

The baffle front of a completed line array is shown. The mounting flanges of the RD-75 driver were emulated with 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" aluminum angle stock. The 'integrated' feature of this emulation is that the mounting screws for the angle stock are also used to further anchor the 1" x 1" side rails to the 1" x 1" cross-pieces on the rear side of the baffle. Lots of screws were used in addtion to the epoxy as a nicety. The mounting flanges allow for 3/4" thick material to be attached to the line array flush with the front-face of the baffle on either side.

The black finish is "Krylon-Contractor" brand "Tread and Grip" paint system. This relativity new product can be used to achieve a modern sort of 'crackle finish' or at least a textured surface, which has a bit of damping functionality also. A thick coating can be built up with multiple applications.

But what of the drivers?

The 'infinite grief' drivers were purchased from the local "Apex Jr." surplus outlet in 1998. Apex Jr. was a well-known supplier to Bass List members at the time I was a member of that forum in 1998. They are 6 5/8" in diameter, an as can be seen from the photo have a large inverted, very thick 'dust cap' - clearly meant as mass loading for the driver. When I first received 28 of the drivers, oh so long ago, their foam surrounds were in good shape! Then I got involved in 'other matters' and they sat in the garage for years.

Rudi Blondia had measured the parameters of the drivers for Apex, Jr. as having a Fs of ~37Hz and a Qt of ~0.70. Clearly of Japan-origin, the drivers were reputedly manufactured by ToneGen? They really looked to be of reasonable quality, given their ostensible intended purpose - as the 'subwoofers' for autosound 'bazooka' systems ;o) Most of all, the price was right then for me to purchase 28 (which included 4 spares). I had thought they might make good dipole drivers in a line array that could closely match the height of the RD-75s and the true ribbons in an array of 12.

Then to my dismay in late 2002 I discovered that the foam surrounds were starting to deteriorate. Four of the drivers had tears in their surrounds. I could neither see myself abandoning them nor installing new surrounds. Previously I'd purchased from Nick McKinney at "Lambda Acoustics" a quart each of both his white(clear) and black "Moyen" damping compounds for cone drivers. Could these compounds be used to repair and/or restore the foam surrounds to functionality?

The simple answer was yes, the long answer was an extended period of restoration madness which ulimately led to my mass-loading the drivers to achieve a close match on the Fs value. That story follows.

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