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Driver parameter guidelines: |
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Before we discuss specific types of drivers, it is first appropriate to discuss
specific parameters and how they are specified. It is beyond the scope of the LDSG
to explain the technical meaning and significance of the various driver parameters.
The bibliography in Appendix H has further information
on measuring and using Thiele-Small and other parameters in speaker system
design. In the meantime, you can read up on the basics of driver parameters at the
following sites:
In the future, I plan to integrate a more complete parameter database into the LDSG. For the time being, the parameters listed in the comparison charts (Sections 7-12) are necessarily incomplete in order to fit them into an easily browsable document. However, other parameters may be derived from those given, e.g…
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Driver guidelines - Tweeters: |
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Prior to ca. 1960, the predominant tweeter designs were either cones or
horns. Cones were generally found in lower priced consumer gear and horns
were more often found in audiophile systems. Since that time, dome tweeters
have pretty much supplanted both. Cone tweeters have always suffered from
problems with beaming and resonances, while horns have always been expensive
to manufacture and tricky to get right. Domes, on the other hand, can be as
cheap and easy to work with as cones, while still challenging horns on sound
quality (but not efficiency). Early domes tended to be made of hard plastics or soft treated fabric. Current technology uses a variety of materials as noted in Appendix B above. For DIY projects, most of my respondents recommend sticking to 1" (25 mm.) dome tweeters and avoiding the 3/4" units altogether. I've generally (more on this qualified statement in a moment) followed this advice because it's easy to see why. There are few things that a smaller dome tweeter can do that a 1" dome can't. Add to that the facts that a smaller dome will almost certainly have lower power handling and have to be crossed over at a higher frequency. Still, I have included a select few smaller domes for those who want the slight edge they offer in extended and off-axis response. It's still fairly safe to recommend against using one in anything less than a 3-way system (although even this has been done successfully in a handful of commercial systems). Having said this, I have to note that there exists a small minority of 3/4" dome tweeters that turn this advice on its ear! Most significantly, the line of 3/4" domes from Hiquphon are among the best dome tweeters in the world and certainly an outstanding value. A fairly recent addition to the technology of dome tweeters is the use of ferrofluid. Ferrofluid isn't a single material, but a class of some 50 magnetically and thermally conductive liquids of varying viscosities which are used to fill the gap around a tweeter's voice coil, thus providing heat dissipation (i.e. greater power handling), mechanical damping, and lowered mechanical resonance. Still, some manufacturers (Scan-Speak and Hiquphon) have moved away from using ferrofluid in their top-of-the-line tweeters, claiming improved transient response and transparency. In addition to the ubiquitous domes, there are still several other technologies worth considering:
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Driver guidelines - Midrange drivers: |
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Midrange drivers, once quite common, have become a fairly specialized niche
since they're only used in 3- and 4-way systems. Midrange drivers have become
a hot topic of debate, with two mutually exclusive, occasionally religious,
schools of thought:
Whatever the individual driver technology, midrange drivers fall into one of three competing design camps:
Finally, there are a very few mid/tweeters that are worthy of serious consideration. Check these out in Section 3 covering wide/full-range drivers. These are especially valuable if you want to build a two-way system with a mid/bass driver larger than 6.5" (170 mm). Some of the more notable are made by Audax, Cabasse, E.J. Jordan, and Manger. |
Driver guidelines - Horns |
Driver guidelines - Midrange and tweeter horns:As an option to direct radiators, many people prefer systems designed around horns. While bass horns are possible (e.g. Klipschorn), they often require woodworking skills beyond the capabilities of the average DIY'er. Also, bass horns are usually implemented using an otherwise standard woofer. Therefore, most DIY'ers selecting horn drivers will be concerned about units covered by the midrange and tweeter units in a conventional direct radiator system. Horns are significantly different from direct radiators in the following ways:
Driver guidelines - Horn/lens and driver combinations:When assembling your own horn system from a compression driver and a matching horn/lens assembly, the responsibility for the final sound shifts away from the manufaturer to the builder. The best driver in the world won't sound good with a poorly designed or manufatured horn - and vise versa. It is beyond the scope of the LDSG to try to identify all such successful combinations, so in Section 11, you will find a list of vendors and specific parts which have been used successfully in hi-fi- horn systems. |
Driver guidelines - Mid/Bass drivers: |
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This is the largest population of currently available drivers, reflecting the
trend toward 2-way systems with separate subwoofers. This is also an area
where you'll find the greatest variety of "new and improved" cone materials
technology. The two most ubiquitous materials, paper and polypropylene, have
been joined by a large variety of exotic materials. The goal is to provide
rigid cones, free from breakup, with a high degree of internal damping. Some
of these are good and some are not so good, so let's start this discussion
with some basic guidelines:
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Driver guidelines - Woofers: |
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Most of the comments above for mid/bass drivers apply equally to woofers.
What differentiates the two are the selection of cone materials and the
driver selection criteria. There are very few woofers which use cones made of
anything except paper or filled PP. Also, as you go lower in frequency, room
response tends to overwhelm the driver's free-air FR, which becomes less
important than how much air it can move - mathematically the product of the
effective diameter, Sd, and Xmax, previously discussed. This brings us back to an issue related to the Xmax issue… Be aware that as we get into woofers and subwoofers, more American and autosound manufacturers (more on this below) are represented, and these are the folks least likely to publish adequate technical specs. This makes it quite difficult to verify that the published value of Xmax (if any!) is a correct +/- value. |
Driver guidelines - Subwoofers: |
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First of all, the proper definition of a subwoofer is speaker system which
only needs to reproduce frequencies in the lowest octave or two. Since human
hearing and acoustics cause us to be unable to localize frequencies lower
than 40-80 Hz, a stereo or multi-channel sound system still only needs a
single subwoofer to create realistic sound at these frequencies. Whether a
single subwoofer can realistically reproduce the required sound pressure
levels (SPL's) involved is another question. For the purpose of the LDSG, a subwoofer is defined as a woofer whose FR tops out at no more than 200 Hz. This is based on two factors which do have a relationship to the actual definition of subwoofers:
Otherwise, all woofer comments above apply. Another differentiating factor is an interesting phenomenon in low frequency drivers that, as woofer diameters increase, the primary sources of supply shift from Europe to North America and the Pacific Rim. Although recommended drivers ranging up to 22" in diameter are listed in the LDSG, you reach a point of diminishing returns once you get much past 12". As a rule of thumb, if you need to move more air than a well-designed 12" driver can do, you're often better off - both sonically and financially - to use several smaller drivers rather than one huge driver. Another trend in subwoofers is the use of car audio drivers in home systems. While few people would think of using 5" coaxial speakers designed for automobile door mounting in a serious home system (although a select few are quite suitable for center or surround channel use), many folks turn to the vendors of the sort of 2-4 ohm, tub-thumping bass drivers used to convert cars into rolling boom boxes. This is not inherently a bad idea, but caution should be exercised. Automotive subwoofers used in a home environment generally have inferior sonic and engineering characteristics when compared to units designed for home use. Not only is the nature of the environment entirely different, the design goals are different. Engineering is the management of compromises. Automotive and commercial sound speakers emphasize high SPL's (i.e. efficiency and high power handling) along with mechanical ruggedness, often at the expense of fidelity. In researching these drivers, a pattern began to emerge where the autosound subwoofers which could compete technically cost as much as, or more than, those designed for home use. Those which did offer attractive pricing ("bang for the buck") often suffered in a purely technical comparison. Also, be aware that the Xmax measurement/specification problems noted above are particularly severe when dealing with autosound subwoofer vendors. Another, more fundamental problem with autosound woofers is that they may simply not work well in home Hi-Fi applications. Computer modeling of some of the most impressive woofers and subwoofers in the autosound market reveals that they begin rolling off around 100 Hz. While this is clearly unacceptable for home use, it works well in a car because the "cabin gain" reinforces the bottom octaves. Conversely, the typical Hi-Fi woofer feeding into such a small volume as an automobile cabin would show a seriously exaggerated low end. Compounding all this is that autosound woofers are often designed to be used in "assisted" alignments, where countouring in the amplifier corrects for speaker FR anomalies. This brings up the last point… Detailed technical specs are certainly harder to obtain from the autosound vendors. Most will have published Thiele- Small parameters, but few actually publish FR plots and waterfall plots are non-existent. Many often don't even publish sensitivity ratings. If you do consider using an autosound subwoofer, get all the information you can and then plug it into the recommended drivers list at the end of the LDSG to see how it compares to the other drivers listed. Only then can you make an informed decision whether it's something you really want to include in your design. Also, when browsing autosound vendor specs, be aware that many highly-touted autosound drivers are really nothing more than custom-branded drivers from more traditional vendors at really inflated prices. For example, Diamond Audio Technologies "Hex" series are identical in all technical respects with the standard Eton "Hexacone" series of drivers. The only apparent difference is the name and the premium prices. At one time, the LDSG included an entire section listing autosound drivers which are suitable for home hi-fi applications. As time has passed, their number has diminished markedly. So with the first 2003 release, all autosound drivers are simply included with those from other vendors. All of the foregoing is obviously dependent on pricing. Autosound drivers are among the most heavily discounted. Unfortunately, street prices are highly volatile, so I can only include best guesses as to what an "average" price might be. In some cases, I don't even try and simply quote list prices. If you're interested in an autosound driver, the only way to judge its value is to compare it with other drivers costing the same as you can get it at the moment. One interesting aspect of selecting an autosound driver for a home hi-fi application is that the best suited drivers are typically one of the autosound vendor's lower cost lines. The reason for this is simply that the more expensive drivers are custom designed for the autosound market and often exhibit the severe LF roll off characteristic of a driver sdesigned for cbain gain reinforcement. On the other hand, a vendor's less expensive drivers are more likely to be an off-the-shelf OEM unit not specifically designed for autosound. |
Driver guidelines - Exotic wide-range drivers: |
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Most of the cutting edge in driver technology appears in new high-tech designs for
wide-range drivers. These are usually designed to cover the range from ~200 :Hz
to the limits of audibility. The most significant technologies on the market are the
so called "bending wave" drivers. These
look deceptively like other dynamic drivers, but operate on completely different
principles. In a bending wave driver, the "cone" is non-rigid, designed to flex.
When driven by a more or less conventional voice coil. Rather than acting like a
piston, the cone vibrates as the driven wave propagates to the edge, much like
dropping a pebble in a lake. The air is moved not by the gross motion of the cone,
but by the peaks and valleys of the transverse wave as it propagates from the voice
coil to the edge termination. As might be expected, the method of edge termination
becomes critical to avoid standing waves in the cone material. There are three principle types of bending wave transducers in common use today:
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Driver guidelines - Exotic woofers and subs: |
Some of the cutting edge in driver technology appears in some new high-tech designs
for low-frequency applications. Even more significantly, some of these drivers are
available for DIY use. The two newest technologies are:
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Driver guidelines - Full-range and wide-range drivers: |
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Not generally of interest to many U.S. DIY'ers (other than for autosound
applications), there is considerable international interest in drivers which
can do it all. Whether your interest is building a single driver reference
system or multimedia (computer audio) speakers, there's something for you out
there. Unfortunately, these drivers are the hardest to spec well. Their
complex construction often leads to anomalies in their FR curves. The most
common technologies are:
The best guideline for full-range drivers is good word-of-mouth. In the LDSG, I have collected data on all full-range drivers which have been recommended by experienced DIY'ers. One final technical note is that these drivers typically are not very large in diameter and the bass cones do not have a large Xmax. Vented enclosures or large horns are the preferred cabinet alignments. Also, note the distinction between full-range drivers and wide-range drivers. A wide-range driver is similar in concept to the ubiquitous mid/bass drivers except it covers a wider range. Wide-range drivers generally come in two flavors:
One additional note is that most dedicated DIY vendors of full/wide-range drivers have little or no North American distribution network. U.S. and Canadian DIY'ers may have to order these from the country of origin (usually in Europe). Where this is the case, and due to fluctuations in currency exchange rates, pricing is only approximate at best. Where North American distribution is available, the vendors typically are not dedicated to full/wide-range drivers, and the individual drivers are likely to be cataloged as autosound drivers. |